The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date

After months of hypothesis and anticipation, and enviously seeing Daniel Craig flaunting one, Omega has lastly introduced us the Seamaster Diver 300M No Date. In my preliminary article, I needed to get the information out shortly, so I saved issues a contact factual. Now although, after getting my fingers on the 2 watches which can be launched, plus a while to digest all the things, we’re going for a extra in-depth story. Is it any good, for example? How does it tie in with different No Date fashions? And most significantly maybe, would I, or do you have to spend your cash on it? This, and an entire lot extra, is to come back as I dissect the brand new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date assortment!

Whereas the highlight typically goes to the legendary Speedmaster, it’s the truth is the Seamaster assortment that’s the true cornerstone of the model. It’s been across the longest, because the title first appeared in 1948 on the event of Omega’s then-A centesimal anniversary. The gathering has been in steady manufacturing ever since, and shaped the inspiration of Omega’s skilled watches, alongside the Speedmaster and Railmaster. Over time, the watch has developed massively, not solely in appears to be like and mechanics but in addition in supplies! It additionally spawned sub-collections such because the Aqua Terra, Planet Ocean and Ploprof. We’ve documented the whole historical past of the Seamaster assortment extensively, in our three-part sequence referred to as The Seamaster Chronicles (Half 1, Half 2, Half 3).

The Legacy of the Seamaster Diver 300M

Extensively generally known as the “Bond Watch”, whereas the truth is the titular spy wore loads of different watches all through all 27 motion pictures thus far, the Seamaster Diver 300M was first launched in 1993. Again then it was referred to as the Seamaster Skilled 300M, or SMP in brief. The watch made its on-screen debut on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan for the 1995 James Bond movie Goldeneye, after which it received its becoming nickname. Since then, it’s additionally turn out to be a genuinely iconic dive watch, though it may possibly nonetheless be thought-about a comparatively fashionable one at that.

With the discharge of the Seamaster Skilled 300M in 1993, Omega supplied a alternative of a quartz motion or the automated Calibre 1109 (derived from the ETA 2892). Its design already confirmed the blueprint of the Seamaster Diver 300M as we all know it at this time, with the model’s signature lyre lugs, a guarded screw-down crown, a helium escape valve at 10′ and a 60-minute bezel with giant notches for grip. The debut mannequin featured a deep blue dial with a wonderful wave-like sample, a key component for lots of collectors and fans. What additionally stood out was the five-link metallic bracelet with polished vertical strains contrasting in opposition to the in any other case brushed hyperlinks. For an in depth rundown of the whole historical past of the SMP, I like to recommend testing our Collector’s Nook episode on it.

The gathering was up to date, totally on the mechanical half, within the late Nineties. By then, the comparatively easy ETA-based computerized wouldn’t suffice anymore and thus it was changed by the Calibre 2500, regulated by a co-axial escapement. In 2006 the SMP was overhauled, grew in measurement and gained utilized markers and logos. Then, in 2011, Omega switched out the lacquered dial for shiny ceramic dials to match the ceramic bezel insert it already had by then. In 2018 the Seamaster Diver 300M celebrated its twenty fifth anniversary, which marked the return of the wave sample, albeit in a broader type.

Coming full circle, form of, Omega now takes parts of the early Seamaster Skilled 300M fashions and combines them with traits from modern-day Seamaster Diver 300Ms within the new pair of No-Dates. Whereas these had been no large shock, given the very fact Daniel Craig has been seen sporting one on quite a few events these previous months, it’s very welcoming to lastly see them turn out to be a actuality. The previous James Bond actor sported what we now know because the all-steel Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date in the course of the 2024 Summer time Olympics, however may be seen with what we consider is a Bronze-Gold version with black dial and burgundy bezel in the course of the 2024 Governors Awards ceremony. Nevertheless, Omega has remained very tight-lipped about that one thus far…

To Date, or To not Date

Probably the most heated debates by fans and collectors is in regards to the date, or slightly if it ought to or ought to be included on the dial. It appears that evidently no matter a model decides to do, there’s all the time a lot of folks on the market who merely disagree with the eventual choice. In the event you put a date on a dial, it’s not proportioned accurately, and even within the improper place, not angled proper or not the precise color and so forth. In the event you miss the date operate altogether, these on the opposite finish of the spectrum will make a press release the watch can be miles higher if it could the truth is have a date someplace. It looks as if there’s no finish to it.

Now that Omega has launched this new Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date, that dialogue will seemingly aptitude up once more. It’s essential to comprehend it’s not the primary time Omega has disregarded the date operate within the Seamster Diver 300M assortment. The latest editions are the particular version for the America’s Cup, the 60 Years of James Bond and the titanium 007 Version. Digging somewhat deeper, there’s additionally been the Black Black in 2021, the Nekton Version, the platinum and gold James Bond version, the 2019 ceramic and titanium Diver 300M and so forth. So it’s not that that is one thing drastically new, it’s simply one thing followers have been asking for, or higher put, demanding from Omega! One factor that arguably could be stated about each one of many no-date Seamaster Diver 300Ms is that they’ve a extra balanced design in comparison with the date fashions. Then once more, preferences are very private so that you would possibly disagree with me, which is completely wonderful.

a New Chapter

The brand new duo No-Date fashions of the Seamaster Diver 300M take off in several instructions. Each characteristic the acquainted 42mm vast chrome steel case, with signature parts such because the screw-down crown, helium escape valve, and notched bezel proper the place you’ll count on them. Nevertheless, the bezel differs on each, because the black dial model is machined from metal and has a black aluminium insert with a white diving scale. The choice is a titanium bezel with an insert that’s coarsely grained and has a laser-ablated diving scale in optimistic reduction, including a big contact of depth and modernity. Trying again at previous fashions, we see the identical type within the Nekton and Black Black editions of the Seamaster Diver 300M, albeit the latter one got here in full ceramic as a substitute of titanium.

Regardless, the overall structure is identical for each. The instances each prime out at 13.8mm in top and are water-tight to a depth of 300 meters. The case has a domed sapphire crystal to maintain the dial protected, though it could have been becoming if the crystal had been mounted flush with the bezel because it did on the unique Seamaster Skilled 300. Nonetheless, the box-type crystal was to be anticipated given the earlier No-Date particular editions (NTTD, sixtieth Anniversary). Total they feel and appear very acquainted, which is reassuring with such an iconic watch. It’s not an excessive revolution of issues, only a play on supplies, decorations and colors.

On to the dial, which is the place issues get much more attention-grabbing. The all-steel No-Date has a black lacquered dial with a laser-engraved wave-like sample. Omega goes again to early Seamaster fashions with this one, because it options finer waves as a substitute of the broad waves of the ceramic dials we all know from latest years. This new dial can be matte in end, sucking within the mild much more.

The result’s rather a lot much less sparkle, making for a extra subdued, purposeful feel and appear. Its monochromatic brother, nevertheless, has a vertically brushed metal PVD-coated dial. This offers it a much more modern enchantment, making for an nearly ghostly-grey diver. Fairly cool! Out of the 2, I’d say that is the extra authentic design, though the black one is nearer to the unique type of the Seamaster Skilled 300.

By way of legibility, the black one wins as nicely however not by a lot. Each depend on the tried-and-tested set of skeleton fingers with Tremendous-LumiNova inserts for the hours and minutes, a lollipop central seconds hand with a luminous dot, and a mixture of rectangular and round markers. The marker at midday is doubled, and all the things is stuffed with Tremendous-LumiNova. The fingers and markers emit a blue hue, other than the inexperienced glow of the minute fingers, which makes it simpler to verify the time at nighttime. On the outer perimeter, there’s a printed minute monitor in white or black, relying on the dial color. The identical goes for the model’s title and brand and the remainder of the markings. I for one am glad that Omega has not departed an excessive amount of from the blueprint of the Seamaster Diver 300M!

Grasp chronometer mechanics

The Calibre 8806 that drives these two new No-Date Seamasters is a well-recognized one too. It was used for the most recent America’s Cup version, for example, in addition to the No Time To Die, the 60 Years of James Bond, the Black Black and so forth. It’s additionally the one discovered within the criminally ignored Railmaster, the third iconic title in Omega’s Skilled sequence of watches that embody the Seamaster and Speedmaster.

This computerized motion runs at a charge of 25,200vph and is regulated by the model’s co-axial escapement with a free-sprung Silicon steadiness. The rhodium-plated central rotor options the hallmark crimson lacquered engravings and Geneva stripes in Arabesque, and it drives kinetic power to the only barrel for an influence reserve of as much as 55 hours. It’s a METAS-certified Grasp Chronometer, which suggests it may possibly stand up to magnetic fields of as much as 15,000 Gauss with out the necessity for a soft-iron interior case.

To distinguish from the date fashions of the Seamaster Diver 300M, Omega places the brand new No-Date variations on a chrome steel mesh bracelet. The design is understood from the No Time To Die watch, and the 60 Years of James Bond editions, and this time round are closed by a folding clasp as nicely. This clasp is a bit thick beneath the wrist and doesn’t shut as tight as the identical clasp does on rubber or leather-based straps. The choice is to buy it on the black or gray rubber straps, additionally fitted with this folding clasp. Costs for the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date are EUR 6,600 for those on a rubber strap, and EUR 7,200 in order for you the mesh bracelet as a substitute.

Are we glad?

Nicely, in brief; sure! It appears to be like superb and is as soon as once more constructed to Omega’s acquainted over-engineering requirements. But when I had been to match it to that different famously long-running dive watch, the Rolex Submariner, do I feel it nonetheless holds up? The basic black dial Submariner is offered with or with no date in precisely the identical configuration. The Omega, then again, forces you to alter color and dial ending, which broadens your choices but in addition poses a problem. What in order for you the big-wave sample in inexperienced, however with no date? That’s not doable. What in order for you the miniature-wave sample in black with a date? Once more, it’s a no.

One factor to notice is that this Seamaster Diver 300M No-Date is right here to remain, because it’s added to the everlasting assortment. Almost certainly, it’ll fly out of the boutiques because it’s a superb interpretation of what was already an excellent watch to start with. Now that the No-Date is lastly a actuality, it’s attention-grabbing to muse about what course Omega will take it in. Will they increase the No-Date idea to different sub-segments of the vary, or will they simply mess around with case supplies and colors at first? Who is aware of, time will inform. All I do know is that it may be the very first Seamaster Diver 300M that has made it to my ‘most-wanted’ listing, so with that stated, sure, I’m fairly glad!

My solely gripe? It’s a contact costly… It prices greater than the comparable date variations with, usually, dearer ceramic dials and bezel inserts. For the sake of argument, a Seamaster Diver 300M with a ceramic dial and bezel insert and with a date operate at the moment retails for EUR 6,200 on rubber or EUR 6,600 on the five-link metal bracelet. And this No-Date, with fewer features and components, and less expensive supplies, begins above that! Then once more, the total titanium No Time To Die version had a sticker worth of EUR 8,100 on a NATO-like strap and EUR 9,100 on a titanium mesh bracelet. So in actuality, we shouldn’t complain too a lot, proper? We ought to be comfortable that is now a part of the gathering!

For extra data, please go to OmegaWatches.com.