Figuring out of La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, for numerous years now, the mannequin Edouard Koehn carries 4 distinct collections. Of particular curiosity is the model launched in 2021 as part of the World Heritage line, mixing two smart points: world time and alarm capabilities. Whereas numerous mechanical watches present combos of an alarm with a GMT or twin time presentthe fusion of alarm and world time is a rarity inside the horological world. In 2023, Edouard Koehn launched a restricted model World Heritage II assortment, sustaining the similar concept and underlying movement whereas offering a recent presentation for followers to find; we had a hands-on experience, and listed below are our impressions.
First, a few phrases regarding the title. Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker and at one time the co-owner of Patek, Philippe & Cie (a specialist of world time watches…) A popularity with roots tracing once more to the nineteenth century, it resurfaced inside the fashionable watchmaking scene in 2020 on account of Bernard F. Fleury, a seasoned veteran inside the enterprise acknowledged for his work as a result of the CEO of Vulcain inside the early 2000s (a specialist of alarm watches…), the place he carried out an enormous place in reviving the mannequin’s reputation contained in the enterprise. Bernard Fleury discovered a watch bearing Edouard Koehn’s title at an public sale; extra evaluation led to attention-grabbing discoveries, thrilling ample to steer Fleury of the title’s potential and rights purchased in 2015. Edouard Koehn produces two collections: a updated chronograph often called Tempus and the World Heritage watches with widespread time and alarm capabilities.
The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II assortment we check out instantly comprises 5 references, primarily distinguished by the colour of the dial. The model is housed in a 42mm diameter case with a primary and trendy design, nonetheless, crafted from grade 5 titanium and measures 14.5mm in prime. It choices sapphire crystal on both sides and has a water resistance guarantee of as a lot as 50 meters.
The bezel, showcasing a notable thickness, gleams with a elegant finish, harmonizing with the rest of the surfaces. The curved lugs seamlessly mix with the middle case, whereas the caseback is securely mounted by six screws. The crown positioned at 2 o’clock is adorned with the mannequin’s wind rose picture and serves the wants of winding, time setting and adjusting the world disc. At 4 o’clock, the crown, marked with a bell picture, is dedicated to setting and winding the alarm. Every crowns operate fluting for simple coping with. No matter its substantial measurement, the watch is weightless, because of the utilization of sturdy however lightweight titanium, guaranteeing a comfortable sporting experience – one factor that will very properly be a bit puzzling at first, as a result of the watch is significantly lighter than its measurement would enable you to consider. Using titanium contributes to optimum acoustics for the alarm function, highlighting the consideration given to every form and efficiency.
Whereas the case design exudes simplicity, the dial of the World Heritage II assortment unveils an enthralling intricacy. Supplied in a palette of ice blue, silver, inexperienced, blue, and anthracite, each dial is constructed spherical a central disc that features a raised image of the world’s northern hemisphere. This central disc is encircled by a hoop that reveals areas representing diversified time zones. Notably, London is highlighted by a pink triangle, denoting its important GMT zone, whereas Paris provides choice to Geneva, possibly a nod to the city’s heightened significance for the watchmaker.
Adjoining to the central disc with the map and time zone areas ring, which completes a full rotation in 24 hours, is a 24-hour fixed ring. The sunshine grey half represents day hours (7 to 17), whereas the black portion signifies night time time hours (18 to 6). Notably, the 12 o’clock place is marked with a photo voltaic image, symbolizing noon, whereas the 24 o’clock place features a crescent, signifying midnight. One different essential issue is the coloured guilloche ring, housing the outer minutes observe and utilized hour indices. Faceted and polished indices are stuffed with Large-LumiNova for enhanced visibility in low-light circumstances. The 12 o’clock index is modified by a proud present of the mannequin’s metallic wind rose model, which could be utilized, though it doesn’t illuminate at nighttime.
The central alpha-type hour and minutes arms with Large-LumiNova are adjusted with the devoted crown in place 3; the stop-second function is a plus as a result of it permits for actual time setting. In place 2, this crown quickly adjusts the world time disc. Naturally, your time zone have to be aligned alongside together with your current hour on the 24-hour ring; then, you are going to get an accurate finding out of hours in several areas worldwide.
Lastly, the World Heritage II outermost ring is graduated for 15-minute intervals per hour, serving the purpose of setting the alarm. To activate the alarm function, the crown at 4 o’clock have to be pulled to position 2. The central hand, adorned with a pink arrowhead, can then be rotated counterclockwise to set the desired alarm time. Furthermore, winding the designated alarm barrel is achieved with the crown in place 1. Activating the alarm requires pulling the crown to position 2 – an environment friendly ample reply for using the watch as a wake-up identify, even when it’s not in all probability probably the most smart one when the watch is worn – push the crown once more unintentionally, and also you’re in problem.
By the use of the clear sapphire crystal caseback, the automated EK-MVTWTA01 calibre reveals meticulous finishes, along with perlage, Geneva stripes adorning the ball-bearing-mounted central oscillating mass, sunburst finish on the wheels and blued screws.
Developed in collaboration with Concepto, an neutral producer renowned for crafting high-end mechanical actions in La Chaux-de-Fonds, this calibre is derived from the A. Schild AS5008 base and presents a wide range of intriguing choices. It features a double-double barrel which concurrently winds the watch and the alarm capabilities – a typical configuration. Nonetheless, what models it apart is the central computerized rotor’s ability to wind every barrels, each in its respective route. The EK-MVTWTA01 calibre boasts a 48-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour.
To complete the ensemble, Edouard Koehn pairs the World Heritage II watches with an alligator leather-based strap (22mm), on the market in diversified coloration decisions to counterpoint each dial variant, secured to the wrist by a deployment buckle that features security push buttons. Restricted to 88 watches per coloration variant, Edouard Koehn’s World Heritage II in all equity priced at CHF 8,500 – which feels pretty trustworthy for such a elaborate watch with an intricate dial and a titanium case.
For additional, please go to www.edouardkoehn.com.
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