The Updated IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44

IWC Schaffhausen has undertaken a whole reworking and refinement of 1 amongst its most iconic fashions, the Portugieser assortment. At Watches and Wonders this week in Geneva, 4 new variations are unveiled: two in white gold with blue and sand-coloured dials and two in Armor Gold with black and silver dials. And there’s further to them than merely new colours.

The perpetual calendar stands as a trademark complication all through the entire IWC’s collections, owing lots to the pioneering module developed by Kurt Klaus throughout the Eighties, which encapsulates the essence of IWC’s engineering ethos. The module gives distinctive autonomy and reliability however accommodates a modest number of components for a perpetual calendar. Nonetheless, IWC’s dedication to advancing and refining the calendar complication has been unwavering. The debut of the first Portugieser with a perpetual calendar in 2003 was marked by enhancements to the moon part present, along with integrating a much bigger low cost gear all through the additional spacious case dimensions, thereby rising accuracy from 122 to 577.5 years. One different notable innovation was the introduction of the patented Double Moon present, which exactly depicts the moon part seen in every the Northern and Southern hemispheres.

The updated and refined 44.4mm (up by 0.2mm) case of the model new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar now incorporates a slimmer middle band and a further slender profile however maintains a peak of 14.9mm. Enhancing its class are glass-box-type sapphire crystals on every the front and back of the watch, contributing to a reduction in whole weight. Notably, the water resistance has been enhanced, reaching 50m as compared with the sooner 30m.

Considerable consideration has moreover been lavished on the dials. The representations have undergone revisions, and the dials of the model new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar references have been painstakingly crafted with 15 layers of clear lacquer, finely flooring and polished to achieve a shiny influence. The calendar subdials are intricately milled into the brass base and the lacquer layer.

Hand-mounted utilized indices adorn the dials, which preserve the normal construction: the weekday subdial is positioned at 9 o’clock, incorporating the working seconds, whereas the date subdial shares home with the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, the month subdial is featured, with the 12 months indicator to its left. Ending the calendar choices is the signature Double Moon present at 12 o’clock. The entire reveals are fully synchronised and are set by means of the crown, all due to Kurt Klaus’s ingenious invention.

The model new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar timepieces can be found in diversified iterations: white gold case with Horizon blue dials that features rhodium-plated arms and indices, white gold case with Dune-colored dials adorned with gold-plated arms and gold indices, and Armor Gold-cased watches with Obsidian black and silver-plated dials, all complemented by gold-plated arms and hour markers.

The IWC-manufactured 52616 movement drives these timepieces, working at 28,800 vibrations/hour and comprising 385 components, with solely 81 dedicated to the calendar module. The escapement has been enhanced to supply superior security in direction of magnetic fields. The automated Pellaton winding system has components crafted from almost wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic, whereas the oscillating mass is long-established from steady gold, seen by means of the present caseback. An affect reserve of seven days is saved in two barrels. The watch’s mechanically programmed calendar robotically adjusts for numerous months and inserts a leap day every 4 years on the end of February, requiring a go to to a watchmaker in years like 2100 or 2200 (assuming the watch is saved working steady) when the bissextile yr is skipped.

These new references IW5037 are paired with calfskin or alligator leather-based straps handcrafted by the renowned Italian shoemaker Santoni in colours fully matching the case provides and dial hues. Prices for the model new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar variations start at CHF 45,000. For added particulars, please go to iwc.com.